Updated: Apr 27
The interstate in Italy is nothing unique. It's just two lanes with speed limit signs in kilometers rather than miles per hour. While on our honeymoon, Micah and I took an exit and drove down a windy road before we finally saw it rising above the Mediterranean Sea, perched on top of a hill in the distance — the White City. The stunning buildings looked like white blocks stacked on and around one another. We were in awe driving up to the city of Ostuni in the province of Puglia.
Before entering the White City, we saw a sign for a masseria where we booked a reservation and took a left turn down a gravel road. We came up to the Masseria Moroseta and immediately entered relaxation mode. The all-white, local farmhouse had a small lot of growing cacti in the front. Cacti are everywhere in Puglia, much like the Southwest landscape of the United States, but where the Southwest has sand and rocks, Puglia has olive groves instead. We grabbed our suitcases from our cute little rented Fiat, walked through the large, black iron gate, and came into a white pebbled courtyard beautifully surrounded by vines, vintage pots, and three of the fattest and sweetest French bulldogs we've ever met.
If you decide to honeymoon or vaca in Ostuni, you might want to rent a car! Most masserias are about 5 - 10 minutes outside of town, and there's not Uber or a train to get you into town center. Renting a car is great for any day trips you may wish to take while you're there!
The owners greeted us before giving us a tour of the property. We walked through a small set of french doors into our white room with a white stone floor, a bed covered in white linen and a wool blanket, and a bathroom sink that looked like a fresh piece of granite newly cut from a nearby quarry. As we walked past the bed, we went through yet another set of blue french doors which opened into our very own small garden with olive trees in the distance.
The rest of the property was just as stunning! The living room looked like the front page of a Kinfolk magazine. Along with a pool, the masseria has an outdoor wood burning oven, room for outdoor seating covered from top to bottom with grape vines and beautiful plants, and a spectacular view of the Mediterranean Sea. After being left to ourselves, save for one French bulldog, we took a stroll through the olive groves beyond the amenities of the masseria.
After enjoying the tranquility of our rooms before driving up the hill into the stacked white buildings. Ostuni is small but worth exploring nonetheless. We wandered it’s white alleys, stopped by a Gelateria and had cactus flower flavored gelato — it was sooo good! Micah and I are coffee nerds, so we stopped by a little café and had a cappuccino.. or two. After we visited the town, we drove back down the mountain to our comforting masseria.
One of the best parts of our stay at the Masseria Moroseta was the food. It was, without a doubt, some of the best food we have had — EVER. We gathered around the farmhouse table on our first evening with the owners and other folks staying at the masseria. We got to enjoy an endless amount of Pugliese wine and a four course meal made in-house by one of the best chefs in Ostuni. While filling our bellies with the first round of wine and bread, we conversed with the other guests — all from several parts of the world: Switzerland, New Zealand, Germany, Canada, Australia and Italy. I've met folks from around the world, but I’ve never had dinner with that many different nationalities represented at one table. It was an inspiring evening I will always treasure. Ostuni was the last stop in our two week vacation before coming back stateside, but it was undoubtedly our favorite. We'll miss the serenity we had at Masseria Moroseta, but we'll return someday soon.